Xiaqiangla Mountains is a cluster of mountains located by the north end of Daxueshan Range and it is part of the Daxueshan Range with several peaks that are over 5000 meters and most of them unexplored. Mt. Xiaqiangla is the main peak at an elevation of 5470 meters. Xiaqiangla is Tibetan, it means “god of beauty”. This cluster of mountains is located between Dawu and Danba County. It has mountain glaciers by east and south sides. Two of the peaks here have been climbed but it is not a popular place to climb, so the rest remain untouched.
Location
Xiaqiangla is a group of mountains located in Danba, Garze. It is the border mountains between Dawu and Danba. The main peak of Xiaqiangla is located at 31°02 ′48.61″N；101° 18′ 23. 46 ″E. To get to the east of Xiaqiangla one goes from Chengdu for about 9 hour’s drive and then another 3-4 hour’s walk to the base of east side. To go to the west base of these mountains, one drive to Dawu for about 10 hours’ drive and another 10-12km to walk to the base.
Mountains
The lake of Hulu is by the end of the glaciers around the mountain peaks of Xiaqiangla. Due to the difference of translation from tibetan dialects, there have been confusing information regarding the names of Xiaqiangla. From the japanese climbers, Xiaqiangla is often refered as the peak that is visible from Hulu Lake, while from the local people, it should be the mountain north to what was refered by Japanese climbers. Xiaqiangla accutally indicates the whole area, it could mean more than one mountains. So now a more popular way of indicating these mountains are, Mt. Xiaqiangla by the north and Mt. Xiaqiang Niea by the south, to refer to these two peaks with similar height.
For Mt. Xiaqiangla, its northeast wall, northwest wall, and southeast wall are steep mixed terrain of ice and rock. There is a ridge on the southwest side, the slope of the glaciers leading to the south slope and the south slope is relatively gradual. The avalanche and rock fall risk is low. It is relatively easier to access from its southwest. The 2012 expedition was conducted from the southwest ridge.
There are many lakes here. The lower Hulu Lake has become a tourist place with locals offering horse-riding service to visitors. Most people hike up to Hulu Lake and go back. The bigger lake at around 4300 meters is called Dahaizi (Joryomtso) and from there the main peaks of Xiaqiangla can be seen.
Note there are several other mountains that are around 5300 meters located to the souheast Xiaqiangla that are not explored.
Climbing season
May-October
Xialiala Mountains is located in the western Sichuan Plateau where it has a monsoon from June til Septemberl. The rest is the dry season. Frequent weather changes in summer make it difficult to obtain a good climbing window. The best climbing season is September-November in general but there has been climb made in summer.
Approaching
East
East side of Xiaqiangla Mountains are the usual approach. It is the same way used by hikers. Start from Dangling, a village that is 65km northwest to Danba County and walk for around 10km to reach 4500 meters by the base of Xiaqiangla to its east. The elevation of Dangling Village is at 3400 meters. Dangling is where you can find porter, accommodations, food.
West
To go to the west of Xiaqiangla, one gets to Dawu first and then from Dawu county to Longpu Village it is another 16km for about 30 minutes drive. From Longpu it is about 10km following the valley to the base at around 4200 meters. Or to continue for another 3km to reach 4700 meters by the lake. Porters available from the village of Longpu.
Essential Locations
Danba
Danba is the usual stopover place for trips to Xiaqiangla. It is around 7-8 horus’ drive to get to Danba from Chengdu. By Danba one can find plenty options for accommodations and food. Danba is more famous for its unique Jiarong Tibetan Villages that has become a popular tourist thing in recent year therefore accommodations are plenty here. There are also shops where you can find food.
Dangling Village
Located 68 km northwest to the town of Danba, Dangling is a gallery of natural alpine lakes, forest, hot springs, grassland and a perfect hiking destination in Sichuan. It is a very primitive and untouched place in Sichuan in the Tibetan area. Over a dozen of mountains are over 5000 meters and unclimbed and unexplored.
Dawu
Dawu is called Daofu in Tibetan. It is by the same level of township as Danba. It has decent hotels, restaurants and shops. Read More.
Climbing history:
By end of April 2010 a Japanese team reached the summit from northeast side.
By October 2011 a Chinese team reached at around 5460m and returned due to bad weather.
By July 2012 another Chinese team made a successful summit from its southwest side from Dawu.
