Mt. Siguniang either refers to the massif and nature parks of Siguniang , or refers to the peak of Mt. Siguniang (Yaomei). Mount Siguniang Massif is located in the Qinglai Shan Range in western Sichuan. It is a massif of dozens of mountains over 5000 meters. Among them Yaomei Feng is the highest peak although the name Mount Siguniang usually refers to Yaomei Feng itself for travelers in China. Yaomei means the youngest sister of the four sisters. It is a technical mountain and requires experience and effort to summit.
Yaomei Peak is also called Mt. Siguniang, that refers to the whole area of Siguniang (four sisters). Yaomei Peak is the highest mountain in Siguniang Massif and Qionglaishan Rangge. It is at 6250 meters above sea level. Siguniang means four sisters but it was originally called Sigula Roda, a gurdian holy mountain in local belief as the Guardian of local people. And four sisters was a meaning added later to make the mountains more romantic. Yaomei means the youngest sister. This mountain is a technical mountain considered often challenging and has been tried many times.
Yaomei Peak is located in Siguniang National Park in Changping Valley, in Aba prefecture 200km west to Chengdu. By driving it takes half day to get to the base town Rilong now called Siguniang Mountain Town. From there it is 3 hours’ walk along Changping Valley to the base of Yaomei Peak and another day’s approach to the usual base camp at its south.
The west face is big rock wall and rest of the other sides are mixed.
Climbing Season
Snowy in Spring time from February to April. Summer and Fall are the monsoon season with lots of rain. Winter is cold but with good weather and less wind. November is considered the best time to climb Yaomei Feng.
To get there
It is 5 hours’ drive from Chengdu by car. 200 km west to Chengdu it has no airport. Mount Siguniang Range is a group of big mountains close to big city Chengdu.
Climbing History
In 1981 in July and August, a Japanese team went up made the first summit in 16 days.
In 1992 in June and July, another Japanese team summated Yaomei Feng in three groups from south route in 23 days.
In 1994, Charlie Fowler started with the first Japanese team’s route and onto southeast route to the summit. It was a solo summit and the first solo one to Yaomei Feng.
In 2002 in April, Mike Fowler and Paul Ramsden summated Yaomei Feng from north route in 5 days.
In 2004 a Chinese team summited Yaomei Feng from south southeast route.
In 2008 Dylan Johnson and Chad Kellogg went up to the summit on southwest ridge in September.
In 2009 in February, Zhoupeng and Yandongdong went up on south route.
